L.A. HAVENS - Mako Sushi

Mako Sushi in Little Tokyo is an authentic Japanese experience.

 

MAKO SUSHI

123 Astronaut E S Onizuka St., Ste 307, Los Angeles (Little Tokyo)

Even though I'm half Japanese, I'm not the biggest sushi lover. However, my boyfriend is obsessed, and over the years I've developed an appreciation for quality fish and knife work. We've tried almost every sushi restaurant in Little Tokyo, and the best, by far, is Mako Sushi. Serving the freshest of superior cuts with unparalleled service in an authentic atmosphere, it's no wonder that Chef Mako has been in business for almost 22 years.

Located on the third level of the Weller Court shopping center (also home to Orochon Ramen and Curry House), the restaurant's manager and Mako-san's wife, Mayumi, is often the first person who greets you at the door. Dressed in kimono, as all the waitresses are at Mako, Mayumi leads her staff by example. She is one of the sweetest and most courteous ladies, who is quick to answer questions about the menu and attentive if you have a problem. It's almost like visiting family when we walk into the restaurant, with the customary yells of welcome "Irasshaimase!" and doll-like waitresses grinning as they recognize us.

As soon as you order, a small salad of cucumber, seaweed and sesame seeds is placed in front of you. My boyfriend always orders the same thing, the Fiji omakase: chef's special choice of sushi with two cold dishes and two hot dishes ($68). There are two other omakase options with less food – Sakura ($58) and Ume ($48) – as well as group omakase choices for 2-5 people.

One cold dish they usually serve with the omakase consists of yamakake (sticky mountain yam) with okra, chunks of tuna, seaweed, wasabi and a quail egg. Another is a jellyfish salad, which I have never seen anywhere else.

Some of the hot dishes that come with the omakase are Chawan Mushi (steamed egg custard with shrimp, dish, scallop and mushrooms), a grilled miso-marinated Black Cod Saiko-Yaki and my absolute favorite item on the menu: the Scallop BBQ. You're given a sizzling small stone hibachi piled with huge Hokkaido scallops, green beans and enoki and matsutake mushrooms. Just make sure to remove the scallops from the hibachi before they become overdone.

I usually get the Scallop BBQ entree and a bowl of rice because it's the perfect vehicle for Mako's homemade soy sauce, which is so delicious I could almost eat it by the spoonful on its own. I've also tried the Prix Fixe meal that comes with seven pieces of sushi with an order of Shrimp Tempura for $35. The shrimp are huge – so plump and juicy.

But the main attraction, of course, is the sushi. What's special about Mako is their huge cuts of fish – do you see how big that piece of toro is in that photo at the top?! The fatty tuna is so silky and divine. The rice is served slightly warm, just as it should be, and provides a perfect bed for succulent pieces of halibut, yellowtail and uni. I love the salmon sushi, with a tiny bit of yuzu on top. The salmon roe sushi is fun to eat, as each egg bursts with a tiny explosion of sea flavor in your mouth.

For more information, call  (213) 613-0083.

L.A. HAVENS - KokeKokko

Yakitori master Tomohiro Sakata at the KokeKokko grill

 

KOKEKOKKO

203 S. Central Ave., Los Angeles (Little Tokyo)

The phrase 'kokekokko' is the Japanese equivalent of 'cock-a-doodle-doo,' the sound of a rooster crowing. Yakitori master Tomohiro Sakata couldn't have chosen a more fitting name for his restaurant, which opened in Little Tokyo over 20 years ago. I love this place so much, I get giddy when I know we're going there for our meat-meal night.

Japanese yakitori are chicken pieces that are skewered and grilled, and they're something that Tomo-san has certainly perfected. He is the heart and soul of the place, where he's always surrounded by clouds of smoke at the helm of the grill in the center of the restaurant. He is gruff and abrupt with his staff, but occasionally smiles as he downs a glass of beer given to him by a customer. He really treasures his regular customers, giving the most loyal of them special black plates with their names printed on top to eat on every time they visit.

When you walk in, besides Chef Tomo in the center of a u-shaped bar area, you'll notice the bamboo decor and various pieces of original artwork depicting him standing at the grill. As soon as you're seated, you're given a hot towel and an amuse-bouche of whatever they have on hand for the day: macaroni salad, marinated daikon with ground chicken, etc.

Breast meat skewer

Tomo-san only uses Jidori chickens, then grills the parts over bincho-tan (white charcoal) that is imported from Japan. You can pretty much try any part of a chicken at KokeKokko – from the traditionally American breast, thigh and wing to liver, gizzard and heart.

Each diner must order at least five skewers (ranging from $2.50 to $3), or you can order their half-course (5 skewers/$16.50) and full-course (10 skewers/$27.50) meals that come with salad and soup (simple but delicious chicken broth). My favorite skewers are the chicken meatballs (so juicy!), breast (served with a dollop of wasabi on top) and hearts dipped in the house-made karashi (spiced mustard). There are bowls of shichimi togarashi (chili flakes and other spices) and sansho (ground sichuan pepper) on each table to sprinkle onto the chicken as well. Diners can also order off-menu parts like neck meat, cartilage and tail (ahem, butt) meat.

Chicken gyoza and soboro

There are several side dishes that I make sure to order too. I am addicted to the soboro (a bowl of rice covered with nori, quail egg and ground chicken stir fried with soy, mirin, sake and ginger). Their chicken gyoza and smoked chicken are amazing, but nothing compares to the off-menu ramen, which is served in the absolutely perfect chicken broth that I mentioned earlier. I actually prefer this simple bowl of ramen to the heavy pork broth served at Daikokuya.

Be warned that the KokeKokko experience takes time. Each skewer is prepared to order, and the waitstaff is usually very busy since the restaurant fills up as soon as it opens. They're always courteous, though – just slow to bring your check at the end of the evening. But this never deters us from returning to the restaurant again and again – at least once a month!

STREET SIGNS - Minnie Mao

Minnie Mouse meets Chairman Mao in Minnie Mao. The sidewalk stencil, designed by L.A. street artist Dog Byte, is located on Central Avenue between 2nd Street and 3rd Street in Little Tokyo.